By Stephen F Tonkin
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Extra info for Amateur telescope making
Prior to attaching the diagonal holder tube to the vanes, I drilled and tapped four sets of opposing holes into the stalk-holder tube near each open end to accommodate recessed hexagonal-headed machine screws of 1/4 in × 20 tpi. (1/4 in UNC; M6). These screws hold and provide longitudinal, lateral, and tilt adjustment of the diagonal stalk. The diagonal holder tube attaches to the vanes with two machine screws. It became apparent that the aluminium tube's softer threads were losing ground to the steel screws.
2. 3. Apply a generous coat of matt-black paint to the inside of the tube. (Note: It is worth testing different brands of such paint. ) Before the paint begins to dry, throw several handfuls of sawdust or Slip-Not (a paint additive made of walnut shells crushed to the consistency of sand) down the tube. Distribute this material evenly by laying the tube on its side and rolling it over and over. Once the paint has dried, the majority of these particles will be firmly affixed to the tube wall. A few gentle taps to the tube should dislodge any loose pieces.
The clips are eyebolts with the threads covered with short sections of PVC tubing. The dowels' through-bolts secure the eye of the eyebolt to the top of each dowel. With the mirror in place, I rotate the ends of the eyebolts across the top of the mirror. The eye-bolts barely clear the mirror's surface. 125 in (3 mm) thick. I salvaged the Styrofoam from a trash heap. 5 in (38 mm) wide which sits flush with the straight edge of each bearing. A coping saw blade trimmed the excess Styrofoam after the door skin was glued to the Styrofoam with common carpenter's glue.